Video: Climbing Jaybird 5.11d at Ferne Clyffe: Midwest Climbing
Midwest Climbing at Ferne Clyffe in Southern Illinois: Jaybird 5.11d
In this video we head to Southern Illinois for the last outdoor rock climbing trip of the year. Ryan Wittich attempts climbing Jaybird a 5.11d sport climbing route on the Watchman's Wall at Ferne Clyffe State Park. This was Ryan's fifth attempt on Jaybird. Sadly he didn't get the send on this climb, but it was a new highpoint for him.
Rock Climbing at Ferne Clyffe State Park
Ferne Clyffe State Park is just south of Goreville, Illinois in Southern Illinois about two hours from St. Louis. In September 2023 Ferne Clyffe opened 70 new sport climbing routes to the Southern Illinois and midwest rock climbing community, with an additional 50 sport climbing routes planned. The project was a collaboration between the Illinois Climbers Association and Illinois Department of Natural Resources funded entirely by donations to the ICA and bolted with the help of 800 volunteer hours.
Ferne Clyffe is sure to become one of Southern Illinois and the Midwest’s best outdoor rock climbing destinations.
Jaybird 5.11d Dyno Crux
Jace Lane does Ryan a favor, like any good climbing partner, by setting the quickdraws for Ryan’s. We get a taste of the crux of Jaybird when Jace takes a nice whipper at the crux move. Jace tries the dynamic approach dynoing off two credit card crips to a big left hand jug at the chains.
Climbing Jaybird 5.11d at Ferne Clyffe
Ryan's first attempt of Jaybird is more static, opting for a static high right hand through the crux, but it proves to be just out of reach. It’s not made any easier with a splitter opening up on his left middle finger. After discussing the Jaybird Beta with Jace, Ryan attempts the dyno approach but a left hand finger pop ends the day for him. Just means another trip to Ferne Clyffe to climb Jaybird 5.11d is in the future!
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Credits
Climber - Ryan Wittich
Belay - Jeff Setchfield
Climbing Partner - Jace Lane
Camera Op - Michael Shepherd Jordan
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